Old Man Emu Suspension Information and Tech

FAQ:

What's the difference between Old Man Emu and Emu Dakar Springs?

In approximately 2005 Old Man Emu began producing the Emu Dakar springs. The Emu Dakar springs feature the same specifications, features and warranty of the original OME springs, at a lesser cost. The original Old Man Emu marked springs are no longer produced, the Emu Dakar springs are the permanent replacement for the springs. We've now sold hundreds of the Emu Dakar springs with excellent results.

Why the A & B sided rear leaf springs?

In some Old Man Emu applications, the manufacture has developed "sided" rear springs in an attempt to eliminate the instance of lean in the finished product. The "A" spring is generally slightly taller (1/2" or less) than the "B" sided spring. We make every attempt to get the right springs order from day one. We select A/A, A/B or B/B springs depending on recommendation from Old Man Emu's engineers and tech department as well as our experiences with past installation. For example the 1st generation Tacoma's will always get an "A" and a "B", with the taller "A" spring going on the drivers side of the vehicle. However for a standard 60 Series application we most often use an A/A or B/B setup, with the A/A resulting in slightly more rake and the B/B resulting in a more level stance. We have received several calls immediately after an install with a leaning truck, in all but a couple cases they have leveled out to an acceptable level. Some don't like to think they need to "break" in their springs, but it works. We ask that you allow your springs to settle in under load and off-road use for at least 4-6 months before making any attempts to correct lean. When applicable (springs offered with an A or B) we will discuss the best options at the time of ordering.

What should I do if my vehicle is leaning?

1. Allow it to settle... I know the idea of driving it (loaded heavy helps too), doesn't sound like a feasible option, but you would be surprise how much it can help. I've had rigs settle over an inch in a matter of time and some actual wheeling on the springs. That being said if your initial difference is ~2", there is something we ought to address sooner than later. To date I can only think of a couple case where this has been necessary... in those cases we sent out a replacement spring and solved the issue.

2. Consider swapping side to side... if your low side is on the "A" spring side, consider swapping them... this has been done with satisfactory results, and its easy enough to do, worth an effort before bringing a new spring into the equation.

3. Consider pulling a leaf out of the "high" side, and or adding an additional leaf to the low side. Sure this might increase/decrease the spring rate of said spring, but not enough that you will be able to notice (roughly a 10% difference in spring rate). I've heard from some that they don't like the idea of a medium on one side, and a heavy one the other. While its not that drastic, its still a valid concern... its ultimately up to you.

4. Doing an A/A or B/B setup where applicable (not all springs are offered in an A/B offering). Not uncommon at all, but not common either. In the end there is not "right" setup for every truck, and when the retailer doesn't have the truck (nor know of all its current & future modifications), it gets difficult to assume anything will sit level. So... in my instance I do my best to send out a kit I think is best per that customers application. In the event of a spring "sagging" more than the inch as discussed above... it could just be a "bad" spring, extremely rare, but possible. So, for those experiencing issues, I would first recommend you consider the solutions above, and if that doesn't pan out, contact either ARB direct or the dealer you purchased it from to get something figured out. While I don't think its majority issue by any sort, it does seem like there are a few experiencing this so. If anything I will try and spend more time with customers on the phone determining what setup they have (and just as important what they plan to add in the future. To date I can't think of a single local 60 Series OME equipped rig that we have worked on that has had this issue... having one here to "measure up" would help allot but in the meantime I'll work through your experiences!

What do the +,o,- marks on my spring mean?

OME/Dakar spring will often have a +, o, or a - painted on one end of the leaf spring, so what does that mean? The + means slightly over spec, and when we say slightly it wasn't enough to consider the spring an error rather it is by design. The o is exactly at spec and the - slightly below spec, again by design. As the drivers side of a vehicle often has more weight, its common to use a + on the drivers side and a o or a - on the passenger side. Or, a o on the drivers side and a - on the passenger. The total difference side to side is likely just 1/8"-1/4" but it can be just the right amount to level the vehicle. This is particularly important when A and B springs are not offered such as many of the newer spring applications.

Why the insert?

The spring eyes are hand formed, they could have made them to fit the 35mm bushings just as the old springs did, however it was decided that by using an insert, the bushing would have a much more consistent surface to ride against, as well as be less likely to be damaged by the spring itself. According to the tech, it is pretty uncommon to have sleeve move, but the fix is easy. If you can pull the sleeve all the way out of the spring, do so, and slightly "crush" it in a vice to make it an elongated shape (very slightly). Then, press it back into the spring, this should hold it for good. If it moves a bit, but not enough to completely remove it, use a punch to "stake" it into the spring, the best location being right where the main leaf eye terminates as there is a small gap there.

Why the OME leaf spring bushings with OME/Dakar leaf springs?

Some of the poly bushings on the market, are not made to the same tolerances of the OME springs, this isn't to say every manufacture, but there are some. This play can lead to premature wear of the bushing. Also, some are using a much harder poly material, while harder might sound better... its not always the case. The harder bushing is more likely to fail by loosing the "ear" than a similar bushing made of a softer material... make sense?

Why are my shackles not sitting perpendicular to the frame when looking from the front or back?

Well, the issue resides in your axle, not the leafs or the shackles (assuming your frame isn't tweaked at all). While the spring has a center pin that locates it into the spring perch on the axle... there is a slight amount of "play". When you install the axles on the vehicle in the air and then you sit it down, things might be ms-aligned slightly, and with the u-bolts tight its going to stay that way. The easy fix would be to put the front end in the air (on jack stands) to that the axle is free hanging. Loosen the u-bolts enough that you can "slide" things a bit... either by hand, or using a rather strap between the leafs, "suck" them together. Make sense?

What are the CBS01 (Center Bolt Spacers) for in your 60 Series Suspension Kits?

Late model FJ60's and all FJ62's came from the factory with a rubber/steel spring isolator assembly that cupped the rear leaf spring between the spring pack and the axle housing. This was done to remove slight road vibrations with the stock springs. This setup is not used when installing an Old Man Emu suspension setup and thus is removed all together. If equipped, the spring center pin holes on the axle's spring perch will have an inside dimension of approximately 1", however the new springs (and old springs too) have a pin outside diameter of approximately 1/2". This gap was taken up by the old spring isolator. By using the center bolt spacers (1/2" tall piece of tube with a 1/2" ID and a 1" OD), that gap is eliminated and you can accurately position your axle.

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