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Central Utah Roaming
Bullion City,
Kimberly Cities, Broadhead Lake and the Pahvant Range
August 9th - 12th, 2007
Text by Kurt Williams - Photos by Steve Edmunds
(Last updated 11/04/07)
Finally, a
trip I was prepared for. Between my last Skyline Drive
trip and this trip, I had spent a considerable amount of time working
on my
spare parts and tool needs. Call it a compulsive disorder, but I have
spreadsheet lists, giving each part and tool a priority mark, as well
as a
location. This combined with my existing camping equipment checklist,
leads to
a streamline packing process for trips. I pull the trailer up from the
back
yard, flip the lip open and load up. I can have the Cruiser and trailer
ready
for a weekend adventure in under an hour at this point. Still not fast
enough!
Day 1 - Thursday 8/09
With my Land Cruiser almost
completely loaded the night before. All I had to do is add food and
fuel and I
was on the road. I met Steve Edmunds in his built FJ Cruiser and Dick
Dyatt in
his trusty old FJ40 Land Cruiser at a gas station in Sandy. Then we
headed to Interstate 15 which was
a typical parking lot heading south over the point of the mountain, the
interstate was slowing even worse as we hit Utah County, finally
letting up
near Spanish Fork. In Nephi we caught Highway 89 arriving in Salina with just
enough time to grab dinner
at Moms Café, a worth while stop for sure. It was chilly enough
outside to
warrant some warmer clothes, I popped open the trailer and fished out
my hoody,
finally some cool weather! From Salina
we continued the drive to Marysvale, we took all back roads into town,
enjoying
the evening weather and lack of traffic.
Our
first destination for the night was Bullion Canyon;
truthfully I knew
very little about the canyon other than it had a road leading to its
head, and
a plethora of mines shown on the topographic map, that’s all the
convincing we
needed. Much to our surprise the canyon was well developed beyond my
expectations. In a joint effort between Marysvale, Piute County
and
the US Forest Service, the
old town site of Bullion City had been partially restored into what
they
called “Miners Park”
and the “Canyon
of Gold Driving Tour”.
The park consists of a short walking tour, as well as a handful of
interpretive
sites throughout the canyon. There are several photogenic turn of the
century
mine buildings, including an old mill and ore loading bins. You really
couldn’t
ask for a better place to settle for the night. We ended up making camp
right
next to the Bully Boy Mill which provided the perfect horizon for an
evening camp.
Day 2 -
Friday 8/10
We spent the morning touring
the Miners
Park
area and enjoying all the
interpretive kiosks throughout the canyon. The map showed a short
connector
road switch-backing over the ridge to the south, passing near Edna Peak,
eventually
connecting to Two-mile Canyon (aka Cottonwood Creek
Canyon).
Unfortunately
the trail was blocked by deadfall and our afternoon schedule wouldn’t
allow us
enough time to work around it. With no time to spare and not even a saw
between
us all, we worked our way back down the canyon towards the service
station in
Marysvale. There we grabbed a cold soda and headed back to the hills.
Our first
stop was the Silver King Mine in Spring Gulch
Canyon,
another excellent preservation project by the locals, and a much needed
chance
to get out and stretch our legs on our self guided tour. A modest two
story
cabin still sits overlooking the mine. The history is well documented
in the
handout provided at the cabin for the short tour. It was lunchtime, and
a
couple of benches near the cabin made a great site to sit back and
enjoy a
quick sandwich.
From
there we continued up the canyon towards the ghost towns of Upper and
Lower
Kimberly. At Upper Kimberly there are a couple of standing buildings
and a
handful of fallen ones. Countless spur trails work their way back into
the
trees, likely leading to mines we can see on the hillsides. The
topographic
maps show a couple dozen mines sites in a mile radius of the town,
plenty of
adventures for future trips. After a quick poke around the upper town
site, we
moved down the road towards the lower town site, now descending the
opposite
side of the mountain range. Lower Kimberly had less remaining of its
past, a
few fallen buildings and some flats that were the likely sites to
numerous
cabins and mine buildings in the past.
Excerpts
from “The Historical Guide to Utah
Ghost Towns” by Dr.
Stephen L. Carr
"High in
the Tushar Mountains,
up at the head of Mill Creek Canyon
is deepest south-central Utah,
lies the skeleton of a delightful old
gold-mining town. The banner decade for gold miners, the 1890’s,
spawned
several major gold strikes in Utah.
In 1899 the Annie Laurie Consolidated Gold Mining Company established a
cyanide
leaching mill in the newly formed Gold Mountain Mining District… Peter
Kimberly, from Chicago, who bought the Annie Laurie Mill established a
small
city which then took his name. By 1902 the mill was running 250 tons of
ore a
day and making good profits for its stockholders. The future of
Kimberly was
looking up.
Due to the
terrain of the canyon the
town was built in two sections - Lower Kimberly was horseshoe-shaped
around the
head of the canyon and contained business establishments and the mill.
Two or
three general stores, some specialty shops, three livery stables, three
saloons, two hotels, two barber shops, two boarding houses, a
schoolhouse, post
office and doctor’s offices, dance hall and dairy were carved into the
hillside
with the mill on the far end of the road. From the near end of the
horseshoe a
road climbed southeasterly up past an enormous lodge building, to the
residential section of Upper Kimberly farther up the tight canyon.
There were
also several homes and shacks on the hillside east of the stores.
Some 500
people live in town during
the boom period from 1901-1908. A daily stage arrived from Richfield and
ponderous ore and bullion
wagons crawled up and down the mountain road to and from the railroad
at
Sevier. Although winter time slowed down activities somewhat, traffic
was still
heavy enough to keep the snow packed down to the roads. Summertime was
especially busy. Besides the regular residents and employees, two large
sawmills were at work turning out thousands of mine supports and lumber
for
buildings.
The
brothels were well-known places;
the town had several murders and the usual array of drunken brawls and
other
crimes for which the participants filled what was reputed to be the
strongest
jail in the state. Butch Cassidy was seen quite often in his years with
the
Wild Bunch. He had grown up in Circleville just down at the other end
of the
small county and knew many of the townspeople. Interestingly enough,
the
company payroll was reputedly never bothered while he was in town.
In contrast
to most gold mines, the
gold at Kimberly was associated with silver rather than with lead and
copper.
Even then, however, the pay dirt began to run thin in 1905 and finally
in 1908
the company was foreclosed and several stores in town were left with an
office
full of worthless scrip. For many years afterward a few men continued
to do the
assessment work and some light exploration although the town residents
left in
mass. In 1932 a new vein was opened up which provided enough work for
50
families and a smaller mill. Another several hundred thousand dollars
worth
came out till 1938 when the vein played out. Neglected buildings don’t
fair
well under Utah
winters and by 1942 many of the still-standing ones were sold and moved
away,
many of the rest have fallen to the snows."
From
Lower Kimberly we continued heading north down Mill Creek
Canyon.
Maps showed the dirt road
eventually intersecting I-70, albeit over 3 miles from where the
highway actually
resides. Discovery of Fremont Indian ruins in the area detoured the
freeway to
its current alignment, interesting that the 24k topographic map of the
area
never reflected that change. Once down the canyon we stopped by the Fremont Indian State Park
for a quick tour, I would highly recommend you do the same if you find
yourself
in the area. The visitor’s center has a miniature rendition of the once
great Fremont
village and a
short walk just outside offers some great views of petroglyphs and
pictographs. We again loaded into the
Cruisers and made our way up to Richfield, where a lot of
folks from the U4WDA would be rolling into town and hanging out. Steve
had the
foresight to get a hotel in Richfield,
he graciously offered us a shower, Richard and I obliged, separately of
course.
After a nice rinse down, we moseyed up to the city park where several
members
of the U4 were manning a registration table. We checked in for the
following
days trail ride, and met a handful of U4 Board Members at a restaurant
north of
town for a nice steak dinner. Dinner ran long, and Richard and I still
had to
find a place to set camp for the night. A stop by the local KOA seemed
rather
fruitless as the campground was almost completely full. Thankfully a
couple
from Salt
Lake
down for the weekend event recognized
us and offered us some real estate in their campsite. (Thanks Again!)
Their site
bordered the KOA’s miniature golf course, separated only by a short
fence. As
it turns out I ended up with the ladder of my roof-top-tent on the 8th
hole of the course, a splendid view for sure.
Day 3
-Saturday 8/11
Richard and I were up and at
it early. I quickly folded up my tent and warmed up the rig for the
short trip
to the county fairground. We were told that breakfast would start at
7am and we
didn’t want to get cold bacon. As it turns out breakfast wasn’t at the
county
fairground, and in a hurry Richard and I settled for McDonalds. We
again met at
the fairground, and watched as the crowds roared in. All in all there
was
somewhere around 100 rigs participating in the event, running one of a
half-dozen trails. Our host for the weekend was the Unlimited 4x4 Club,
based
right there in Richfield,
they did an excellent job and many thanks are due! Our entire trio
ended up
running the same trail, Broadhead Lakes Trail. The trail would take us
into the
Fishlake Hightops, climbing to nearly 11,000 feet before descending
back into
the valley. The trail ride was most excellent, cool weather, great
company and
some new terrain. Despite the mild rating, we encountered several
technical
sections that really kept everyone on their game.
Back
in town we showered up and went back to the fairground for the
remainder of the
Summer Convention events. We arrived just in time to grab dinner and
buy a
couple raffle tickets, I didn’t win anything but some Jeep dude was
charitable
enough to give me a Toyota
hat he had won. Following the raffle we migrated over to watch the
Off-Road
Rodeo and mud-bogs, again hosted by the Unlimited 4x4 Club. They had a
great
turnout, both spectators and contestants alike. Following the show we
chatted
in the parking lot for an hour or so, reminiscing about the old rigs
and the
good old days. The night was coming to an end and we took our show on
the road,
heading east out of town to an eventual campsite on the ridge above
Annabella.
Accompanying us were some old friends I had reacquainted with on the
trail that
day, Darin in his Jeep TJ, and Aaron in his full-size Ford truck. We
chatted
around the campfire, eventually retiring to our tents for the night.
Perfect
weather!
Day 4
-Sunday 8/12
Darin
and Aaron decided to join Richard and me for some more wheeling on the
way
home. We met back up with Steve in Richfield
at his hotel, gassed up the rigs and pondered some maps for a route
north.
Darin had a trail book that highlighted a part of the Piute ATV trail
that was
open to full size vehicles. This particular route would take us from Richfield to Fillmore, passing over the Pahvant Range.
The trail climbs to nearly 9000 feet before dropping back down into
Fillmore.
While searching for a comfortable spot to enjoy lunch, we stumbled
across the
Territorial Capitol building. After a short tour of the grounds, we
enjoyed a
lunch in the shade of the trees, followed by a short nap for me. The
rest of
the group still had some exploring left in them, they left heading
south in
search of a natural hot spring that Richard had visited in another
life. I
missed my wife and dog (in that order), so I hit the highway and didn’t
stop
until I hit home in Sandy.
Excellent trips... I don't
know how I could ever leave Utah...
there is SOOO much to see. The area we were wheeling in has 2400+ miles
of dirt
road. Of which we saw 100 or so. And that is just a couple of counties
in the
area. There were spur roads heading to unknown destinations, other
mines in the
area, etc. So much to see! A day after arriving home and I was already
longing
to be back down there!
Links:
Fremont Indian
State Park and Museum
http://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/fremont/
Marysvale Utah - Area
History and
General Information
http://www.marysvale.org/
Utah 4 Wheel Drive Association
http://www.u4wda.org/
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